Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
